National Portrait Gallery

Today I went to the National Portrait Gallery. I was so exited to have a day out in London with all my new friends, getting the train together, exploring and finding our way around London, as I'm from the north I don't usually go down to London as its so far away.

When we got to London we found our way to the gallery, or so we thought! We actually ended up at a different gallery round the corner but soon realised we was at the wrong one (lol). 

So, when we arrived at the right gallery we was all there as a big group waiting to go in. I had never been to a gallery before as I didn't art or anything related to going to a gallery before.

I did beauty therapy and hairdressing but they don't really relate to galleries. I was quite excited to go inside to look at the paintings and see how its all set out.

When we got in there I was so surprised every thing was so neatly arranged on the walls and they were much bigger than I thought they would be I was pleasantly surprised!
You could get so close see and the colours and the cracks in the paintings, there was a little information box next  to all the pictures too giving a little background to who was in the painting.

I found my way to Queen Elizabeth I and it was so strange seeing something in real life that was painted all them years ago that I've only ever seen on google. I loved seeing all these other paintings that were in there too like Henry VIII and the modern 3D image of Queen Elizabeth II.

You can see how things have changed from the Tudor times, back then they had professional portraits with painters and if they didn't like it they would burn it. Where as today, we have photographs, still have paintings but even better we have lit up 3D designs of our queen. 

It shows how much things have changed and how creative and how brilliant our technology is. 

Even though the old portraits will never be replaced as they are hundreds of years old, newer things are taking over and becoming more regular and we are all becoming modernised.

It was a great experience for me seeing all these fantastic paintings right there in front of me. In the huge frames all set out on the walls and there was so many of them! It was hard being able to look at them all and take the all in but one took my eye. 

Anne of Denmark 

I saw this painting on the wall near Queen Elizabeth and realised she's from Denmark and she moved over to Great Britain when she got married to King James I, she ended up having seven children to James and even though they loved eachother they ended up living apart. 

In the portrait we can see that she has pearls across her body and her dress is a shiny silvery colour, pearls are a symbol of purity she was dedicated to her family and her religion. She even changed her life from politics to creating and opening her own magnificent court which then hosted events for the richest people in Europe. 

Her hair was very very big and she had pearls in there too showing her wealth, her hair colour was vibrant you can see that in the portrait, it was probably a wig too which showed her wealth off. 

Her face was as white as snow is this portrait showing she clearly used some sort of make up on her skin which could have been bad for her skin over time.

It just shows that even though she's from a different country, they still follow the same fashions, she moved to Great Britain but they have to same dress sense, make up, hair, pearls and jewels. 

I love this portrait because, even though she's not as important as Queen Elizabeth, because she looks so important. She knows she's important and wealthy, she shows in her stance and her face, where she's looking and her outfit. 

Her make up and hair is on point for her era, there's no mistaking her for anything less than what she is. 

It's very inspiring because there are a lot of wealthy women in our time now, who obviously aren't the Queen, but who have a lot of responsibilities and influences on a lot of people. 

Like Beyoncé, Caitlyn Jenner and Angelina Jolie. They all have massive influences in society and no matter what they say or do there will always be a huge following if people backing them up. 

Reflection 

I loved having this trip out to London to see all these beautiful portraits. I surprisingly enjoyed myself when I didn't think I would and I would most definitely go again and look at the modern portraits and I didn't get chance to have a look around the whole gallery. 

The only thing I didn't like was there was so many portraits and paintings sometimes it was difficult to look and take them all in as there was so many. Everyone who we went with was looking for Queen Elizabeth too so it was quite busy at the portraits we wanted to look at. 

Overall, I had a lovely day, I enjoyed myself I saw something which I have never seen and been somewhere I have never been and I really had a good time, I would definitely go again. 

Face Charts

Producing Face Charts is a very important thing when designing a make up look. They give you the chance to put down in front of you what you want to do and to see if it actually looks okay and if the idea works before you start practicing on a model.
There are many different face charts available the main one is the MAC face chart which is the same face you see on popular social media like Instagram.

You don't have to use make up on a face chart you can use any material you like as long as the look you want to create is suitable to put on the face.

When using make up though, it is best to use small harder brushes rather than bigger softer ones. This makes it much harder to get the product on to the face chart and to build the colour up, where as the smaller harder ones its much easier to get more colour pay off on to the paper.

This is my first face chart that I have ever produced

I was very happy with the outcome as I have never done one before. I wasn't sure on what to do or how to use the products on the paper but I just experimented with a few different brushes and products to see which ones I like the best on the paper and which ones I felt more comfortable using.

I decided to do a smoky eye with e fierce contour on the cheeks. I think this is a look most girls are going for, the strong cheek bones and the striking smoky dark eye. I wanted to create something that I know I would wear myself rather than doing something totally adventurous and messing it up.

I was really pleased with the outcome of the face chart, I tried my best to get the eyebrows even which is quite tricky sometimes even on a real model. I liked creating the strong contour on the face, trying to get both sides even and trying to give the paper some structure instead of having a flat face effect.

The only thing I didn't like doing was creating a nose! I really struggled as I cant really draw noses with a pencil so trying to recreate one with make up was proving difficult. But I got there in the end and the out come wasn't too bad.

Creating new looks and experimenting on a face chart is very good practice for you. Before you go wild on a model and wasting more product than you would on paper, try out new things on a face chart and see what you like and what works best first, and then go in for the kill on your models face.

Introduction

In this Elizabethan project I will be learning, research and presenting my own take on the Elizabethan era. I will be researching and finding out more information on Queen Elizabeth, her portraits, how she looked and what she did to 'enhance' her beauty. Watching films about her reign will also be an interest as these give a more contemporary view with real facts on what happened all those years ago.
looking in to and researching all these different things will give me a really good understanding on what they did and why they did it, on creating their iconic make up look.

Doing all these things will set me up on how to research other briefs for the future, looking in to symbolism, make up recipes and the different films and programmes based on that time will give me a good idea on how to research properly and efficiently. I will also be looking at modern hair styles too and how they have been originated from the Elizabethan era.

I know that they used to have the palest white skin, made from a special concoction of  ingredients we probably will never use on our face in the 21st century. They had really high foreheads and no eye brows, pink cheeks and really red lips. The more make up they had on, was the biggest symbol that they were high and mighty.

It was said that Queen Elizabeth I

'had fully mastered the art of manipulating her image as the 'Virgin Queen' so that she appeared
perpetually youthful, even perpetually desirable'

She wore all the make up, all the wigs, all the jewellery and pearls she could, she was the biggest role model in her time, everyone wanted to be like her and look like her. In the year 1602 she had all her beauty and hair 'cosmetics' recorded

'she also possessed a massive wardrobe of dresses and every form of cosmetic preparation
common to the age. Many of her cosmetics were prepared by herself and she favoured a strange assortment of ingredients.' 

Finding out new facts and seeing what they used to wear and put on their skin is so fascinating, thinking that some of the recipes I'm going to research were actually a proper face cosmetic back in those days is baffling. I would never dream of using such crazy ingredients on my skin like they used to.

In this project I will be going in to depth about the cosmetics and portraiture in the Elizabethan era, finding out these things are crucial historical facts about how fashion and make up have revolutionised in to today.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDg9AoJYxeY

Contouring

Contouring the face gives it definition, just a foundation base and powers can sometimes give a really flat look but with extra shading with a grease on grease product with powder over the top looks really flattering on the face. 

You can totally change the shape of someone's face by adding a darker shade into the hollows of the face and lighter shade into the raised parts of the face. 

Health and safety 

- follow all health and safety routines 
- when you have finished with your spatulas and any other consumables them put them straight in the bin as you don't want your work station to look messy or unprofessional 
- when you have finished using your make up pads on your client make sure they are washed in wash water with a soft shampoo and rinsed in warm water and conditioner to keep them soft 

Important questions to ask your client before any treatment is carried out - 

1. Are they allergic to anything on - this can help you determine what products to use on the skin and which ones not to 

2. Do they wear or have any contact lenses in - making sure you ask your client this is necessary as you don't want to do too much eye work and get product in the eye as this can irritate it. They may even take the lenses out whilst you do the clients make up. 

What you will need 

 

- couch roll 

- cape 

- hair clip/bobble 

- foundation brush 

- small round brush 

- kabuki brush 

- small flat brushes

- medium round brushes 

- powder/blusher brushes 

- sponges/pads 

- spatulas 

- Illamasqua loose powder 

- Illamasqua satin primer

- Kryolan dermacolour camouflage 

- Kryolan ultra foundation palette 

- Kryolan blusher palette 

Actions

1. On the skin I did the basic cleansing routine, removing all the make up and dirt off the skin. 

2. Using primer and the foundation palette I then did a base foundation on my model and concealed but I didn't apply any loose powder. 

3. Feeling the clients face with my fingers I felt around her cheek bones so I could see and feel where the hollows in the cheeks are. 

4. Getting a shade of foundation/concealer 1-2 shades lighter than the foundation I then put soft strokes on the parts of the face I want to highlight and make appear brighter - 

- the middle of the forehead/between the eye brows 

- down the middle of the nose 

- the brow bone 

- tops of the cheek bones 

- middle of chin 

- Cupid's bow 

5. Once the lighter shade was on the skin I blended it all in so there was no harsh lines 

6. I then chose a foundation/concealer that was 1-2 shades darker than the normal skin tone. I put soft strokes in the hollows of the face or where I wanted to 'shade' 

- round the hairline on the forehead - to give shape to the face 

- down the very sides of the nose - to make appear smaller 

- the hollows of the cheek bones - to bring them out 

- just under the lip in the crease of the chin - to make the lip appear bigger 

- under the jaw line - to make jaw look sharper 

7. After I had applied it where I wanted, I blended it all in so there was no harsh lines. You can really see the difference as the face has more shape and structure to it. 

8. Using a pad I applied the loose powder all over the skin, setting the make up so its not sticky and will last longer. 

9. Over the highlighted areas I apples a sort highlight to bring out the lightness even more 

10. Over the shaded areas a little bronzer over the top makes it stand out even more, giving a little shimmer to the skin too.

11. Then on the cheeks a little blusher to add some colour to the cheeks. 

This is the finished look 

This is a foundation base on the left and a contoured look on the right 

Reflection 

I loved doing this make up as I've always wanted to leave how to contour properly rather than copying YouTube videos. I already had an idea of what to do as I do watch a lot of tutorials about contouring, but seeing someone do it 'properly' was very interesting. 

The main thing people like to contour are their cheeks, having killer cheeks bones is so in right now and so being able to do this properly and professionally now feels great! I can't wait to practice on my friends and make their face 'structured'. 

The hardest thing about contouring is picking the correct colours, there are so many different tones and shades in the palettes we have so picking the right one is a little difficult. But the more I practice the more I will get to know the tones and colours I have in my kit. 

Overall, I loved doing this make up and I can not wait to do it on my friends and clients/models. I was really happy how my contour turned out on my model today, she likes a strong contour so listening to my model and giving her want she wants is important too as well as me doing it properly and making the look work on the model. 

Colour Chart

LColour charts are used all over the world for a variety of different things. They are all the same as every colour comes from the same basic primary colours - red, blue and yellow.
The colour wheel defines different colours -
           - lightness - how light or dark a colour is
           - saturation - how intense or dull a colour is
           - hue - the actual colour itself eg, blue, green, purple etc

When choosing colours for a makeup look you should always things of three different ways of carrying it out and which one would look best for the brief you have been given or what the client/model wants -
           -monochromatic - this is using one colour on the face but in a variety of different shades for example using blue tones you could start from a vivid midnight blue going down to a soft pale blue.
           - analogous - this is using colours which are next to each other in the colour wheel, by memorising the colour wheel you will know which colours are next to each other for example, red and purple are next to each other and so are yellow and green 
           - complementary - these are colours which are on opposite ends of the colour wheel for example, red is opposite to green and blue is opposite orange. Try not to overpower the colours as it can become too much on the face.

Consider colours as expression, when you think of green you think of envy, jealousy and poisonous. So creating a look for some one or a character who will fit that brief would be perfect. Where as, when you think of yellow, it is a very bright, warm colour which can create a brighter mood someone who is happy and bubbly. Also you have to think of skin tone and eye colour when creating looks as you don't want to drown out the face or make the eyes appear smaller.

Primary colours - Blue, yellow and red. The primary colours are what makes a colour wheel, they are the basic shades when mixed together create all the other elements of the colour wheel.

Secondary colours - Purple, green and orange. These secondary colours are what completes the colour wheel, these colours are the basic shades and all the colours that fit in between are made out of these 6 basic colours.

Analogous - these colours are harmonious as they work together with each other, being next to each other in the colour wheel means they will work together to create exciting looks. If a client has blue eyes then purple liner or purple eyeshadow would work really well to make the eyes pop and stand out.

Complementary - as these colours contrast they work very well together, 'complementing' the skin or the eyes etc. For example of a client has redness on the cheeks or around the nose you can apply a green concealer on those areas as green cancels out red. When applying the foundation over the top the redness should be covered.

Monochromatic - using different shades of the same colour you can create a variety of different looks but you choosing the colour to complement the skin or the eyes or it could wash the skin out and drown the eyes.

Achromatic - grey scale or black and white gives an edge to a look, black and white are really common colours to use in a make up look deepening areas and highlighting others. 

Neutral - neutral shades are the 'basics' - beiges, browns and nude colours. Recently the huge fashion trend has been a nude lip and flawless matt skin. These colours work on all skin types as long as you pick the right shade to match the skin.

Chromatic - these colours are pure pigment colours which are the 6 basic colours to a colour wheel - blue, purple, red, orange, yellow and green. Make up looks are very effective and inspiring when basic colours are used.

Warm colours - Red, orange and yellow                     Cool colours - Blue, green and purple

White Bases

Elizabethans were prized for their very white skin, they used a variety of different things on their skin to get it as white as they could. One way to get the palest skin wax mixing white lead and vinegar, it was smothered all over the face, neck and chest area but it made the skin start to appear grey and shrivelled after use. Then they found different mixtures which were nicer on the skin. Ingredients like paste of alum, tin ash and sulphur, boiled egg white and were mixed together to make the white base and uncooked egg white was used as a 'glaze' on the skin making it appear smoother and hiding wrinkles.

Today, we don't need to use ingredients as such to create such a pale base, there are a variety of different products that are available to use to get the look. There are foundations, creams, gels, face paints and different make up products which are available in white to purchase.

I had 3 different products to test out on the skin, they were all white and all different textures and formulas. I wanted to see how it applied onto the skin, what it appeared like, did it set or was it sticky, was it easy to remove, was it a thick formula or thin and what did it look like on the skin.
I tested out the Illamasqua Skin Base in White, Kryolans Supra Colour in white and Kryolans Aqua Colour in White.

Firstly, I removed all the make up off the skin using the cleansing routine to make sure all make up was removed, I didn't want it to effect the colour or the application of the white product so I made sure it was all removed.

Kryolan Supra Colour

Application -
I used a small round brush to apply the colour on the skin, it is a very creamy formula almost like a face paint, it smoothed over the skin not leaving any lines or patches of thicker colour. It covered all the skin evenly, even over the lips and redder areas of the skin, it covered them perfectly. It did leave brush marks on the skin at first but after I had finished applying it all over the face to the coverage I wanted, I buffed out the skin using a stippling brush and it made it look so much better. It took away and excess colour off the skin leaving it beautiful and smooth. No lines or streaks were left on the skin, it looked even and soft.
The Supra colour is so pigmented too, at first I thought it wasn't covering as well as I had thought, I went over the patch a few times and the more you apply the more intense the colour becomes. Even when applied over the eye brows it covered them perfectly, you could still see the hair underneath but it puts a layer over the hairs making them appear white.
The only thing I don't like about the Supra colour is that it is quite sticky on the skin to touch, it feels soft and set on your face but if you touch it you get a lot of colour pay off on to your finger. This could be a downfall to this product because I you touch your face or hug someone or get changed/dressed it is going to rub off onto the clothing. The only thing you can do to prevent this happening is setting the colour with a loose powder or a setting powder in white. This will set the colour on the skin, making it soft to touch, no colour pay off and it will last longer on the skin too. 

Removal -
This product was very difficult to remove off the skin, it felt as though you was wiping it off but also spreading it around the face in the process. Using a cotton pas with cleanser on to remove the product showed just how hard it was to remove, I used a handful of cotton pads and I still had it smothered all over the face. It does come off the skin but it just takes a white for it all to be removed, it gets stuck in the hair line which is the most difficult part of the face to remove products as it grips/sticks on to the hair.

Kryolan Aqua Colour

Application -
I used the same small round brush, freshly cleaned, to apply the Aqua colour on to the face, it was a lot thicker in consistency compared to the Supra colour. The Aqua colour is activated with water so I dipped my brush in to some water first and then worked the brush into the product. At first I thought it was a nice thick paint on my hand but when applying it on to the face it was very thin and very streaky, leaving brush marks and thickening in places where there was more brush strokes. It is very must like a paste, the more water that is added the easier it is to apply on to the skin. When applying it on to the face you need a lot more product compared to the Supra colour, you need to add water to the colour a lot more often than I thought you would as it dries very quickly and it very hard to move across the skin. It has very good coverage on dark/red areas such as the lips and the eyebrows. It covers the eye brows very well leaving a white later over the brows so they don't appear dark at all.
At first it feels very soft and wet on the face but after 2 minutes or so it starts to dry and feel very hard like it has set on the face like a face mask feel, although to touch it still gives a pay off on to the fingers.
When I had finished my coverage, I buffed out the colour with the same, freshly cleaned, stippling brush, it was very difficult as the pain had already dried. It made it look even streakier than it was before leaving whiter patches on the skin making it look very un even.
I didn't like how tough it was to move around the face, I really struggled to get a nice even tone to the skin but it looked very streaky. I also didn't like how it gave a pay off on to my finger when touched, it could rub off or give pay off on to the clothing or on to other people unless it is set with a white powder.

Removal -
I found this colour so much easier to remove off the skin, as it is water based the cleanser just took the colour straight of the skin. I did have to go over the same area a few times but it actually removed the product unlike the Supra colour which just moved over the skin. I wasn't very impressed with the application but it was very easy to remove which I was impressed with.
 

Illamasqua Skin Base

Application -
The application process was very, very good compared to the other two formulas, as this one is a foundation it was very easy to apply the already creamy fluid.
I used a foundation brush to apply it on to the skin, the coverage was there as you could definitely see the skin was white, when we had completed all 3 products on the skin you could see the difference in them all. The foundation was a very good coverage much better than the Aqua but not as good as the Supra. It is a very nice product to apply on to the skin, very creamy consistency and it was soft on the skin too, didn't feel wet or sticky. It covered very well over the slips and any darkness or redness on the skin too. As it is a foundation buffing and blending the product was very easy, it buffed out really well using a stippling brush, leaving no lines, no darker/whiter patches and it looked very set on the skin, it did feel a little sticky but didn't have as much pay off on my finger to touch. It can also be set with a white powder too.

Removal -
The foundation wasn't as easy to remove as it was to put it on, it appeared to come off very difficultly as the foundation just moved on the skin until it was rubbed in the same place a few times. It was much easier to remove than the Supra colour but the Aqua colour was much easier to remove than this foundation too.

Summary

Overall, I think the best formula is the Supra colour. I feel as though it was very quick to apply on to the skin giving me the effect I wanted - very white skin. The consistency of the colour was very good and easy to move on the skin. It can be layered up to make more of a vibrant colour and it didn't go streaky on application or after buffing.
I was very impressed with this product more than the others as the foundation was very good too but comparing them both on the skin, the Supra colour was more intense and covered the skin better. The Aqua colour I didn't like at all as it didn't cover the skin evenly, it was streaky and patchy and I didn't like the finished look.
If I was to do this again I would maybe just do half the face with the Supra colour and the other half the Illamasqua Skin Base so I could compare the two on bigger area of the face. I was very impressed with the Skin Base but for the look I wanted to achieve the Supra colour was the best one out of the three. 

In the photo you can see the difference between all 3 of the products, the Illamasqua Skin Base on the chin and lips, the Supra colour on the clients left side of the face and the Aqua colour on the clients right side of the face. You can tell the Supra colour is thicker and white looking compared to the other two and the Aqua colour looks patchy compared to the smooth look of the Illamasqua on the chin and lips.

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/makeup.html

Monochomatic Make Up

Today I did a monochromatic make up look! Monochromatic is where you use the same colour but in different shades, I had a model who had blue eyes and orange brings out blue, so my colour scheme was orange. 

We had to use a blank canvas, and at first I got confused so I started applying a foundation base which matched my models skin, then only to realise my tutor meant blank canvas as in 'white' skin.
So I quickly adapted my routine to what I was meant to be doing and carried on with my monochromatic look.

Health and Safety

- follow all health and safety routines
- when you have finished with your spatulas and any other consumables them put them straight in the bin as you don't want your work station to look messy or unprofessional
- when you have finished using your make up pads on your client make sure they are washed in wash water with a soft shampoo and rinsed in warm water and conditioner to keep them soft

Important questions to ask your client before any treatment is carried out - 

1. Are they allergic to anything on - this can help you determine what products to use on the skin and which ones not to 

2. Do they wear or have any contact lenses in - making sure you ask your client this is necessary as you don't want to do too much eye work and get product in the eye as this can irritate it. They may even take the lenses out whilst you do the clients make up. 

What you will need -
 

- Couch roll

- Cape

- Hair clip/bobble

- Foundation brush

- Small round flat brush

- Kabuki brush

- Sponges/pads
- Small angled brush
- Blusher brush
- Small rounded brush
- Blending brush
- Stippling brush

- Spatulas

- Illamasqua loose powder

- Illamasqua satin primer

- Illamasqua Skin Base foundations - SB01 and SB08
- Kryolan Eye shadow Compact - V2 Bright

- Kryolan Supra colour palette

Actions

1. I cleansed the skin removing all remaining make up and dirt using the cleansing routine.
2. I then used the Illamasqua foundations to create the right colour to my models skin tone. I just applied it over the top of the foundation I had already applied as it mixes together really well so it turned out really white.
3. I buffed out the white foundation on the skin to remove all excess product and patches or brush marks with my kabuki brush, this also evens it out on the skin making it look really soft.
4. After the skin was buffed, using my pad I used the Illamasqua loose powder to set the foundation.
5. As the power can look blotchy on the face I used a soft stippling brush and swept it over the face to remove all the excess powder from the skin.
6. Starting on the eyes, I used a flat round brush to apply bright orange eye shadow from the Kryolan eye shadow compact V2 Bright, just on to the eye lid.
7. Once I had got the colour I wanted, I used a small round brush to apply a softer, paler orange in to the eye crease.
8. Using a buffing brush I buffed both the colours together and around the eye so it looked blended away rather than a harsh line.
9. I asked my model to open her eyes and look to the ceiling, using my flat brush again I applied the darker colour all underneath the models eye around the lash line.
10. Then, wit the eyes shut I got my small round brush and applied the lighter colour all around the tear duct and inner corner area.
11. Using the buffing brush I buffed out the colours underneath and around the tear duct to remove all the harsh lines and to blend it out on to the skin.
12. Making sure there was no harsh lines left and the colour was very brush and pigmented, I then moved on to the lips.
13. To do the lips I chose to use the Kryolan Supra colour palette, as my colour scheme was orange I got a spatula and scrape out a little bit of the orange on to the back of my hand.
14. My small angled brush was perfect for doing the lips as it gives you a really sharp edge, I
got the brush into the product and started to fill in the lips and outline them.
15. Making sure the lips were even and there was no wobbly lines I then patched up the centre of the lips applying more orange to deepen the colour.
16. I really liked the look just how it was but I decided to add some colour on to the cheeks. I got my blusher brush and dipped in to the bright orange I used on the lid and created some cheek bones by smoothly sweeping the brush across the cheekbone.

Reflection

I really enjoyed creating this look, considering I was ding it wrong at first! But, when I got there I really did enjoy it, seeing how the colours really stand out again a white background was amazing!
The orange that I chose to use really stood out on my models face, as she has soft light brown hair and blue eyes. The look really seemed to suit her even though it was a very odd look.
Creating a really soft white base was tricky as first but buffing and setting it made it stand out and look really soft on the skin. Once I had that soft looking skin I was really pleased with myself as I know I had made a mistake in the first place.
When doing the eyes I was shocked at the pigmentation in the colours I was using, they were so vivid and bright on the skin you hardly needed any product at all to get the perfect colour.
Also on the lips the colour was so bright you didn't need a lot of product to get the desired look.
The brushes I was using were the best brushes for the job as they were very good at buffing and softening out the products on the face, the angled brush was very good and precise when applying the lipstick too.

The only thing I didn't enjoy about doing this task is that I bodged up in the beginning. I had enough time to complete my look but I was annoyed at myself because I had wasted time. Even though I corrected my error and the final result I was extremely happy with, it was still a mistake I could have avoided.

Overall, I was very pleased with the monochromatic look I created, I really enjoyed creating it on my model and using some of the products I have never used before. If I was to do this look again I would pick a different colour scheme as creating and using different colours gives a total different vibe and feel to a look.

Foundation Base

Getting a perfect foundation base on your model is a must have in this industry. If you cant get a perfect coverage by hiding blemishes or skin pigmentation etc then you wont get much work. When people look in magazines their skin is always on point and flawless. Some adverts are different to others, some may have really dewy highlighted skin where as others could have matt contoured skin.
There are so many different foundation products available and after your cleansing routine you will be able to see what kind of product will look best or if you are doing a certain shoot you will use certain products. If you are doing an underwater shoot you will use an oil based make up, if its hot and the sun is shining on the skin then use an SPF as a moisturiser or a foundation with an SPF in it already and if the client have an allergies try use a brand such as Clinique which is allergy tested.



Health and Safety

- follow all health and safety routines
- when you have finished with your spatulas and any other consumables them put them straight in the bin as you don't want your work station to look messy or unprofessional
- when you have finished using your make up pads on your client make sure they are washed in wash water with a soft shampoo and rinsed in warm water and conditioner to keep them soft

Important questions to ask your client before any treatment is carried out - 

1. Are they allergic to anything on - this can help you determine what products to use on the skin and which ones not to 

2. Do they wear or have any contact lenses in - making sure you ask your client this is necessary as you don't want to do too much eye work and get product in the eye as this can irritate it. They may even take the lenses out whilst you do the clients make up. 

What you will need -
 

- couch roll

- cape

- hair clip/bobble

- foundation brush

- small round brush

- kabuki brush

- sponges/pads

- spatulas

- Illamasqua loose powder

- Illamasqua satin primer

- Kryolan dermacolour camouflage

- Kryolan ultra foundation palette

Actions -

1. Cleanse the skin -

2. If you need to apply sun block then apply it now under the make up as a moisturiser do the skin is always protected. Make sure you do protect the skin because if you are shooting over a couple of days you don't want the skin tone to change too much or even burn.

3. Colour match the foundation, using the foundation palette, to your clients skin, do this by getting a shade of foundation or mixing a few shades to one you think is the correct colour to your clients skin tone and place a little on the jaw and down the neck, blend out a little to see if it matches. if you need to change the shade then remove the foundation off the clients skin and keep matching it. Make sure you record what foundation shade/shades you have used so you know if you have a few days on a job or just for future reference.

4. Using the foundation brush, work the Illamasqua satin primer in to the bristles and apply straight on to the face or you can mix it into the foundation, chose a primer which will also go with the skin. If the skin is dry use a satin primer and if the skin is oily then use a matt primer.

5. Work the foundation brush into the foundation and apply all over the face starting on the nose and blending and dragging the foundation out towards the hair line getting in to all areas around the nose and eyes. You need to cover every bit of skin showing which includes going down the neck and the ears so you have no lines and it all blends in together. When going down the neck use stroking movements up and down blending it all in, also be really careful around the eyes, get the client to open their eyes and look up so you can get right underneath.

6. When you get onto concealing the face pick a shade 1-2 depths lighter, from the dermacolour camouflage palette, this will lighten the area making it appear illuminated rather than deep and dark. Apply under the eye if needed and in the corners of the eye and side of nose, sides of the nostrils and corners of the mouth. Apply with a smaller brush but work into skin with fingers using dabbing technique.

7. Using the kabuki brush buff all over the skin to work the foundation in and give a really natural look to the skin, using big circular motions all over and down the neck and ears too. Then if you need to add more foundation in the areas where you think are needed.

7. Using the triangular pads and the Illamasqua loose powder, dip the pad in to the powder and press it in all over the face to remove shine and help keep the foundation from slipping off the skin. Put extra on the eye lids because this will act as a base and make easier for the eye shadows to blend on a softer surface.

This will give you the perfect base to your make up giving you a perfect finish and flawless skin.

Reflection

I really liked learning in depth how to apply a foundation base and conceal, I haven't ever been shown properly face to face how to apply it, where to start and where to finish. I didn't know you had to cover the ears and all the way down the neck to blend it all in with the face. I also learnt to buff the skin after the foundation and concealer has been applied, I usually use a buffing brush on myself so it does it as I apply it.
It was interesting to see how buffing the skin really makes the foundation set and look more natural, rather than just applying it with a foundation brush.
I enjoyed learning where to apply the concealer too, instead of applying it all underneath the eyes, down the nose, centre of the forehead and chin where you see splashed on social media, you only need in in areas where you feel need more covering and brightening.

I was unsure on how much product to use as I didn't want to cake and over load the skin and I didn't want to have no coverage at all, I used an average amount on my client which covered the skin nicely and matched really well too. 

My client had quite pale skin so getting the right colour was tricky but once j achieved it, it was very nice and easy to apply on the face, neck and ears. 

My clients skin needed exfoliating so the foundation was sticking to her skin a little bit on her forehead. 

After applying foundation, concealer and buffing the skin, it looked so nice and natural I was very please with my attempt of a perfect base. I then applied powder on to the skin and if looked lovely. Very natural yet the 'perfect skin' look! 

Overall, I am very happy with my foundation base, more practice makes perfect. Getting quicker and knowing your products more gives you more confidence in the colours to pick when choosing your shade which I'm sure I will get in time. 

Elizabethan Portrait Sybolism

In Elizabeth's portraits or any ones portraits for example, they all have thing in the background or on the person or something being held that is a symbol of something meaningful to that person. If you look closely at Queen Elizabeths portraits then you will see her and a variety of different things in all of them.
If you look in to any portrait there will be something in there somewhere that has a meaning to them.
Queen Elizabeth had loads of portraits painted of her but there aren't many left in the world as they got destroyed, if she didn't like the look of one she would have it destroyed too.
There are many different things that she had in her portraits, from a crown to a pelican.

The Red and White Tudor Rose
Elizabeth had these in her portraits to refer to the Tudor dynasty and how much it has brought people back together, as there was a civil war - 'War of the Roses'. Also, as Elizabeth liked to be known as the 'Virgin Queen', the Tudor rose was also a symbol of the Virgin Mary, she liked to use the rose in her portraits so her people know shes married to the Church and the Country. Like the Virgin Mary she wanted people to look up to her for doing right for the country.

The Pelican
A pelican is known for its motherly love, if there was a shortage of food mother pelicans were known to pluck their own breast to feed their young ones and save their lives. As the mother would die during this process it became a symbol of Jesus sacrificing himself on the cross and his 'body and blood' are a sacrament of communion, as does the pelican sacrificing its body and blood for its young. Elizabeth would do anything for her country and the people that lived in it, she loved every one and would do what ever she could to defend her county - as would a pelican for its young.

A Phoenix
A phoenix is a mythological creature, it was believed that they would live for 500 years and then be consumed by fire and re born again. Like the Queen of a country there can only ever be 1, making them very special. A phoenix was a symbol of resurrection, eternal life and endurance, just like Queen Elizabeth - wanting to rule for as long as she can, not dying, having strength and power and uniqueness. Even though she wanted to rule for a long time - 44 years was the longest and best reign for the country she made a sense of national stability for the country.

The Ermine
An ermine is a member of the weasel family, it was very well known and prized for its tail of pure white fur with a black tip. A legend was told that an ermine would rather die than soil on its beautiful pure white coat, this made ermines appear to be pure. They were in many of Queen Elizabeth's portraits, as she was 'pure' also but the ermine was also a status symbol as only royalty and high nobility people wore them.

A Sieve
A sieve was a symbol of purity and virginity which dated back to the Ancient Roman times, the Vestal Virgin - Tuccia, produced her virginity by carrying water, unspilt, in a sieve. As it was dated back to the Ancient Romans, Elizabeth liked to show her link with the Roman Empire by holding a sieve in her portraits and showing off her virginity too.

Pearls
Pearls were a sign of purity and virginity, it was said too that her mother loved wearing pearls. Elizabeth would wear them in her hair, on her clothes and in her jewellery. It was suggested that Dudley's last gift to her were pearls so they had a special meaning to her.

An Armillary Sphere
An armillary sphere was a skeletal globe which studied the movement of the planets, they were used in portraits in Elizabeth's time to represent wisdom and knowledge of the earth/world. Elizabeth used it in her portraits to show her power and it was a symbol of her good relations with her courtiers.

Crowns, Orbs and Sceptres
The Queen would wear her Crown and hold an orb or sceptre or have them in the portrait somewhere as they would signify her wealth and her monarchy in England.

As well as what was presented in her portraits, how she sat and where she was looking was very significant. Her father, Henry VIII, he had a posture about him which showed his magnificence and power. Elizabeth adopted his posture, sitting up right showing how powerful she is with her stance.
She would also stare in to the distance which could mean she was thinking about the future of the realm and what she could do to protect her country.

http://hoocher.com/Portraits_of_Elizabeth_I_of_England/Portraiture_of_Elizabeth_I_of_England.htm

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elizabeth_I_of_England
http://www.rmg.co.uk/explore/sea-and-ships/in-depth/elizabeth/representing-the-queen/symbols-and-emblems-used-in-elizabeth-portraiture
http://www.elizabethfiles.com/the-armada-portrait/3931/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Armillary_sphere#Renaissance

Contemporary Portait

For my contemporary portrait I chose Solange Knowles wedding image. She is Beyoncé's sister and recently got married to Alan Ferguson and had a huge family portrait. 

Solange is in the front as she's the bride, stood in the middle and showing her power and pride over her family. It's her day, it's her wedding and so being 'center' of attention is what will always happen on your big day. 

All her family wore white, all white attire as to how their style is. Only the bride usually ears white on their big day but everyone wearing white shows how she loves her family equally letting them share the spot light - wearing white. 

She had all her close family and friends there for her wedding portraits. She's showing everyone who is important to her, her sister and her mother in particular as they are stood at the front with her. 

The room in which the portrait is taken, it has high Windows, fancy lighting and really bare. This shows their wealth as big rooms, big windows, nice lighting and open spaces are tied in with wealth. Very minimalistic is modern these days, not having clutter and filled rooms. Where as space and emptiness with expensive decor shows your wealth. 

I love this picture as it shows women's power too, she has a portrait with all her female family members. Beyoncé has a very positive impact on the world with her music and her extra work, Solange and her mother also work in the same industry and being a successful women in that industry is very hard. 

I really like this portrait as it shows love, companionship, it's a special day - a wedding day, wealth and power in the family too. They all fit together and look like they all love eachother like families do. 

Preparing the skin

Cleansing the skin before applying any make up is the first thing you should ever perform when you are working on a client. If it's not your make up then remove it!

This will allow you to see what your clients skin is like, is it dry, oily or is there a combination. 

By doing this and assessing the skin with nothing on it you can decide what products to use and what will work best. There are numerous amounts of skin products you can choose from such as liquid foundations, cream based, gel based and powder forms. You will know which one to use when you can see the skin naturally. 

When cleansing the skin always use one for sensitive skin, you are then covering all skin types with just one product instead of carrying around 4-5 different ones. This is much easier for artists as they can use one for every client and not worrying if it's too much for the skin and causes a reaction or even makes a skin conditions worse. 

Health and Safety 

- follow all basic health and safety routines

- when you have finished your cleansing routine put all dirty make up pads and buds in the bin straight away, you want a clean surface to work on and not have dirty consumables on the side that can look unprofessional

Important questions to ask your client before any treatment is carried out - 

1. Are they allergic to anything on - this can help you determine what products to use on the skin and which ones not to 

2. Do they wear or have any contact lenses in - making sure you ask your client this is necessary as you don't want to do too much eye work and get product in the eye as this can irritate it. They may even take the lenses out whilst you do the clients make up. 

What you will need 

- a gown/wrap to cover your client 

- 2 section clips to secure any hair out the way of the face 

- bed roll to cover your work surface 

- make sure your clients face is in the middle of the mirror 

- your skin cleanser, toner and moisturiser for sensitive skin 

- cotton pads 

- cotton buds 

Actions 

1. Set up your station with your products and consumables in a neat presentable way 

2. Put your cotton pads into pairs and put a blob of cleanser in the centre of each pair 

3. Cover over your client with your gown or wrap, make sure the clients hair is all off the face by using the section clips 

4. Stand behind the client, looking in the mirror and ask them to tilt their head back so you can see their neck in the mirror 

5. Get a pair of cotton pads and rub the cleanser into them both so you have one in each hand. Starting from the bottom of the neck smooth over their skin in upwards strokes removing the make up 

6. Then move on to the face getting clean pads when you need to, always using upward/outward strokes. Make sure you get into the eyebrow hairs and the hair line removing all traces of make up, dirt, grime and other things from the atmosphere off the skin 

7. When you have removed all the make up off the skin, put a small amount of cleanser on the back of your hand, using a cotton bud put some cleanser on it and wipe under the clients eyes, on the eye lid and in the eyes lashes removing all eye make up - if the client has a lot of mascara on you can give them a cotton pad with the cleanser on and ask them to give their lashes a rub to help remove it 

8. When all the eye make up has been removed get a clean cotton pad in both hands with toner on and using the same upward strokes remove all traces of the cleanser and any left over make up off the skin
9. Using a 5 pence piece size of moisturiser, rub it into your hands and then onto the clients face covering all areas including down the neck in nice massage movements

If you feel like your clients skin needs an exfoliation, ask your client to do so the night before or 2 nights before to remove any dead skin cells from the face and neck. You may even recommend they do it a few nights before as the skin will still be plump and red the day after and that can make your job harder as a make up artist to get a perfect coverage.

Now you have cleansed and cleaned the skin of all traces of make up, dirt and grime you now have the perfect base to start your make up.

Reflection

As I have already studies Beauty Therapy I did have a good idea on how to cleanse the skin already, but I did learn new things.
I did learnt how to cleanse the skin by standing behind the model rather than them laid down in front of me. I also learned the importance of the motions we use to remove the make up. Stroking the neck upwards with the neck stretched so you can get into all the lines to remove all the make up as you don't want to miss any areas. I also learned how to carefully remove the eye make up around the eye with a cotton bud, this was interesting because you think you have removed all your make up the night before or on the day with a wipe but there is still a large amount of make up still sat on the skin and in the eye lashes.

I enjoyed learning how to do this again and refresh my memory on the techniques that you have to use because it showed me the importance of removing all traces of make up off the skin because you don't wait it to effect the application of your make up.

I was unsure on how much product we should use but it all does depend on how much make up your model has on her face. It doesn't matter how much you use just as long as all the product is removed.

Next time I cleanse some ones face I'm sure I will be better at it, as practice makes perfect and the more times you do things the better and quicker you are.

Health and Safety Overview

Health and safety when working on clients is always important so making sure you do your best to reduce any risks is crucial. 

- moving all bags out the way especially if they have any handles on so no one trips over them 

- hang any coats or jackets up or put them away some where safe, no one wants to trip over any loose sleeves or ties so making sure they are out the way will reduce the risk of people tripping up 

- make sure your hair is always tied up and away off the face, you need to see what you are doing when applying make up on a client and you can not keep touching your hair. Having it up and back so you can see clearly will also look more professional too 

- having short and well manicured nails with no chipped nail polish is a must, do not have long nails as the client will be a little scared you may poke them in the eye if they are too long and the longer they are the more germs there are underneath so short nails are much cleaner and look nicer

- always wash your hands thoroughly before doing any work to remove all dirt, germs and other bacteria on your hands. This will ensure you are not putting any of your germs on to your clients face 

- wash your hands after you have finished your client to remove any product off your hands, if you are moving on to another client you need to have clean hands as it looks very unprofessional having dirty make up on your hands. Also it reduces the risk of passing in any germs from client to client

- always make sure you clean your brushes after and between clients to remove any germs that are on the brushes and make up which has been used on them. This will ensure no germs are being passed on from each client

- make sure your client is covered up by using a gown, you don't want to spill any make up on your clients clothing as you don't know how expensive your clients clothes are and you don't want to ruin them so covering then up will ensure no spillages are on their clothing 

- make sure your work space is always clean and have bed roll to hand, covering up your space before you put your products out will make sure you don't damage the work surface 

- when doing a clients make up, make sure the lighting is on before you start your client and that their face is in the centre of the mirror. When working on shoots their face will be on a camera, the lighting is helpful for you as looking at the clients face in the mirror is how they shall be seen on a photo rather than looking at them face on 

- make sure you scrape your products with disposable spatulas or a plastic reuseable one, ensuring no double dipping into products as this can hold germs in the product and you will then be using that product on different clients and passing on the germs

Important questions to ask your client before any treatment is carried out - 

1. Are they allergic to anything on - this can help you determine what products to use on the skin and which ones not to 

2. Do they wear or have any contact lenses in - making sure you ask your client this is necessary as you don't want to do too much eye work and get product in the eye as this can irritate it. They may even take the lenses out whilst you do the clients make up.