Thursday, 22 October 2015

Foundation Base

Getting a perfect foundation base on your model is a must have in this industry. If you cant get a perfect coverage by hiding blemishes or skin pigmentation etc then you wont get much work. When people look in magazines their skin is always on point and flawless. Some adverts are different to others, some may have really dewy highlighted skin where as others could have matt contoured skin.
There are so many different foundation products available and after your cleansing routine you will be able to see what kind of product will look best or if you are doing a certain shoot you will use certain products. If you are doing an underwater shoot you will use an oil based make up, if its hot and the sun is shining on the skin then use an SPF as a moisturiser or a foundation with an SPF in it already and if the client have an allergies try use a brand such as Clinique which is allergy tested.



Health and Safety

- follow all health and safety routines
- when you have finished with your spatulas and any other consumables them put them straight in the bin as you don't want your work station to look messy or unprofessional
- when you have finished using your make up pads on your client make sure they are washed in wash water with a soft shampoo and rinsed in warm water and conditioner to keep them soft

Important questions to ask your client before any treatment is carried out - 
1. Are they allergic to anything on - this can help you determine what products to use on the skin and which ones not to 
2. Do they wear or have any contact lenses in - making sure you ask your client this is necessary as you don't want to do too much eye work and get product in the eye as this can irritate it. They may even take the lenses out whilst you do the clients make up. 


What you will need -
 
- couch roll
- cape
- hair clip/bobble
- foundation brush
- small round brush
- kabuki brush
- sponges/pads
- spatulas
- Illamasqua loose powder
- Illamasqua satin primer
- Kryolan dermacolour camouflage
- Kryolan ultra foundation palette



Actions -

1. Cleanse the skin -
2. If you need to apply sun block then apply it now under the make up as a moisturiser do the skin is always protected. Make sure you do protect the skin because if you are shooting over a couple of days you don't want the skin tone to change too much or even burn.
3. Colour match the foundation, using the foundation palette, to your clients skin, do this by getting a shade of foundation or mixing a few shades to one you think is the correct colour to your clients skin tone and place a little on the jaw and down the neck, blend out a little to see if it matches. if you need to change the shade then remove the foundation off the clients skin and keep matching it. Make sure you record what foundation shade/shades you have used so you know if you have a few days on a job or just for future reference.
4. Using the foundation brush, work the Illamasqua satin primer in to the bristles and apply straight on to the face or you can mix it into the foundation, chose a primer which will also go with the skin. If the skin is dry use a satin primer and if the skin is oily then use a matt primer.
5. Work the foundation brush into the foundation and apply all over the face starting on the nose and blending and dragging the foundation out towards the hair line getting in to all areas around the nose and eyes. You need to cover every bit of skin showing which includes going down the neck and the ears so you have no lines and it all blends in together. When going down the neck use stroking movements up and down blending it all in, also be really careful around the eyes, get the client to open their eyes and look up so you can get right underneath.
6. When you get onto concealing the face pick a shade 1-2 depths lighter, from the dermacolour camouflage palette, this will lighten the area making it appear illuminated rather than deep and dark. Apply under the eye if needed and in the corners of the eye and side of nose, sides of the nostrils and corners of the mouth. Apply with a smaller brush but work into skin with fingers using dabbing technique.
7. Using the kabuki brush buff all over the skin to work the foundation in and give a really natural look to the skin, using big circular motions all over and down the neck and ears too. Then if you need to add more foundation in the areas where you think are needed.
7. Using the triangular pads and the Illamasqua loose powder, dip the pad in to the powder and press it in all over the face to remove shine and help keep the foundation from slipping off the skin. Put extra on the eye lids because this will act as a base and make easier for the eye shadows to blend on a softer surface.

This will give you the perfect base to your make up giving you a perfect finish and flawless skin.


Reflection

I really liked learning in depth how to apply a foundation base and conceal, I haven't ever been shown properly face to face how to apply it, where to start and where to finish. I didn't know you had to cover the ears and all the way down the neck to blend it all in with the face. I also learnt to buff the skin after the foundation and concealer has been applied, I usually use a buffing brush on myself so it does it as I apply it.
It was interesting to see how buffing the skin really makes the foundation set and look more natural, rather than just applying it with a foundation brush.
I enjoyed learning where to apply the concealer too, instead of applying it all underneath the eyes, down the nose, centre of the forehead and chin where you see splashed on social media, you only need in in areas where you feel need more covering and brightening.
I was unsure on how much product to use as I didn't want to cake and over load the skin and I didn't want to have no coverage at all, I used an average amount on my client which covered the skin nicely and matched really well too. 
My client had quite pale skin so getting the right colour was tricky but once j achieved it, it was very nice and easy to apply on the face, neck and ears. 
My clients skin needed exfoliating so the foundation was sticking to her skin a little bit on her forehead. 
After applying foundation, concealer and buffing the skin, it looked so nice and natural I was very please with my attempt of a perfect base. I then applied powder on to the skin and if looked lovely. Very natural yet the 'perfect skin' look! 

Overall, I am very happy with my foundation base, more practice makes perfect. Getting quicker and knowing your products more gives you more confidence in the colours to pick when choosing your shade which I'm sure I will get in time. 















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