Contouring

Contouring the face gives it definition, just a foundation base and powers can sometimes give a really flat look but with extra shading with a grease on grease product with powder over the top looks really flattering on the face. 

You can totally change the shape of someone's face by adding a darker shade into the hollows of the face and lighter shade into the raised parts of the face. 

Health and safety 

- follow all health and safety routines 
- when you have finished with your spatulas and any other consumables them put them straight in the bin as you don't want your work station to look messy or unprofessional 
- when you have finished using your make up pads on your client make sure they are washed in wash water with a soft shampoo and rinsed in warm water and conditioner to keep them soft 

Important questions to ask your client before any treatment is carried out - 

1. Are they allergic to anything on - this can help you determine what products to use on the skin and which ones not to 

2. Do they wear or have any contact lenses in - making sure you ask your client this is necessary as you don't want to do too much eye work and get product in the eye as this can irritate it. They may even take the lenses out whilst you do the clients make up. 

What you will need 

 

- couch roll 

- cape 

- hair clip/bobble 

- foundation brush 

- small round brush 

- kabuki brush 

- small flat brushes

- medium round brushes 

- powder/blusher brushes 

- sponges/pads 

- spatulas 

- Illamasqua loose powder 

- Illamasqua satin primer

- Kryolan dermacolour camouflage 

- Kryolan ultra foundation palette 

- Kryolan blusher palette 

Actions

1. On the skin I did the basic cleansing routine, removing all the make up and dirt off the skin. 

2. Using primer and the foundation palette I then did a base foundation on my model and concealed but I didn't apply any loose powder. 

3. Feeling the clients face with my fingers I felt around her cheek bones so I could see and feel where the hollows in the cheeks are. 

4. Getting a shade of foundation/concealer 1-2 shades lighter than the foundation I then put soft strokes on the parts of the face I want to highlight and make appear brighter - 

- the middle of the forehead/between the eye brows 

- down the middle of the nose 

- the brow bone 

- tops of the cheek bones 

- middle of chin 

- Cupid's bow 

5. Once the lighter shade was on the skin I blended it all in so there was no harsh lines 

6. I then chose a foundation/concealer that was 1-2 shades darker than the normal skin tone. I put soft strokes in the hollows of the face or where I wanted to 'shade' 

- round the hairline on the forehead - to give shape to the face 

- down the very sides of the nose - to make appear smaller 

- the hollows of the cheek bones - to bring them out 

- just under the lip in the crease of the chin - to make the lip appear bigger 

- under the jaw line - to make jaw look sharper 

7. After I had applied it where I wanted, I blended it all in so there was no harsh lines. You can really see the difference as the face has more shape and structure to it. 

8. Using a pad I applied the loose powder all over the skin, setting the make up so its not sticky and will last longer. 

9. Over the highlighted areas I apples a sort highlight to bring out the lightness even more 

10. Over the shaded areas a little bronzer over the top makes it stand out even more, giving a little shimmer to the skin too.

11. Then on the cheeks a little blusher to add some colour to the cheeks. 

This is the finished look 

This is a foundation base on the left and a contoured look on the right 

Reflection 

I loved doing this make up as I've always wanted to leave how to contour properly rather than copying YouTube videos. I already had an idea of what to do as I do watch a lot of tutorials about contouring, but seeing someone do it 'properly' was very interesting. 

The main thing people like to contour are their cheeks, having killer cheeks bones is so in right now and so being able to do this properly and professionally now feels great! I can't wait to practice on my friends and make their face 'structured'. 

The hardest thing about contouring is picking the correct colours, there are so many different tones and shades in the palettes we have so picking the right one is a little difficult. But the more I practice the more I will get to know the tones and colours I have in my kit. 

Overall, I loved doing this make up and I can not wait to do it on my friends and clients/models. I was really happy how my contour turned out on my model today, she likes a strong contour so listening to my model and giving her want she wants is important too as well as me doing it properly and making the look work on the model.